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Articles Page 1
been some extensive discussions on some of the forums lately on the importance of bloodlines and
I'd like to address that first. In The Call Duck Breed Book, by C. Darrel Sheraw, there is a history of
Calls in this country. The White Call, which has been my primary interest, seems to stem from one or
two breeders in the early part of the 1900s. Due to the expense & difficulty of importation, it is doubtful
that there are more than a few different bloodlines in the country today. Therefore, I'm more concerned
with type than I am with pedigree.
My first White Call was a drake bred by D. Clausing, FL., purchased from Wm. Ryan in 1989 by myself
as a rank amateur, who didn't know enough to know the bird was much too large to be competitive. I
did, however, realize that he was beautifully proportioned and a healthy, vigorous breeder. I still have
him . A couple years later, Art Lundgren generously sold me a small duck & helped me understand
what I needed to look for in my breeding program. I've followed his advice since that time, have line
bred exclusively from that original pair, only once purchasing new birds from the original Clausing
line and, now and then, obtaining a bird from someone I'd sold breeders to.
I select my pairs with an eye to what each can contribute to compliment what the other may lack. A
duck with a great body but lacking head type, for instance, may be paired with a drake that has what
she lacks. Calls are difficult at best and the breeder should be aware that "show quality" birds are
often not your best choice for breeding. The very type that places well in the showroom may produce
few, if any, offspring & they may be greatly inferior to the parent birds. I've been very lucky to have
produced many winners and credit that to the fact that I breed what I show. My birds tend to be a bit
larger than some judges think is desirable but I've accumulated 70 ABA starred wins in the past 9
years, including the ABA Nat'l. Champion Bantam in 1997. Many of the knowledgeable judges today
realize that if the trend to breed smaller and smaller Calls continues, we'll breed them out of
existence.
My breeding set-ups are simple. I generally use pair mating , sometimes switching one drake from
pen to pen if I'm using several ducks. Trio mating will work if a drake is aggressive enough but it's
easier to keep track of matings with a one on one system. Eggs are marked and ducklings are toe
punched according to matings. I have used "flock or pen" matings with sibling drakes with good
success. Competition seems to encourage aggressive mating. Since I don't have the luxury of
constantly running water, pans are changed daily, which stimulates breeding activity. I feed a year
round diet of an 18% waterfowl pellet, supplemented with small amounts of Red Cell in spring & lots
of greens. Ducklings are brooded in the house for a few days to assure health & that they're eating.
They are then placed outside in hutch type wet brooders. These have ceramic heat lamps in the
enclosed areas & floor level pans with hardware cloth ramps for free choice swimming. I feel they're
healthier and feather out faster than those brooded indoors for weeks. They're fed a 12% waterfowl
crumble, pond algae & chopped grass for 2-3 weeks, before being switched to a 14% pelleted feed.
The only advice I can give to newcomers to this breed is to not be easily discouraged. They're not an
easy project and good ones don't come regularly. However, there is a lot of satisfaction that comes
from knowing that you've produced something that places well in competition and have earned the
respect of your peers as a breeder. That's something that money can't buy!!
| Selection & Breeding by Evy Avery |
| Conserving Incubator Space by Steve Jones |
When the waterfowl hatching season starts there is always a concern for incubator space. I hatch
goose, muscovy and call duck eggs on their sides and there is a way that I have found to space them
more efficiently and conserve a little more space in Sportsman incubators. First I cut square wooden
dowels the length of the incubator tray. (Photo 1)
Next, I cover the wooden dowels with cushioned shelf paper that you can find at any hardward store.
(Photo 2) The 'paper' is non absorbant and sticky to prevent slippage of the eggs. It can also be used
to line the hatcher trays since it is non absorbant and can be cleaned and sanitized between
hatchings.
The goose eggs are placed on their side between the spacers. (Photo 3) Six African or American Buff
eggs can fit on their sides or seven China or Shetland eggs together will fit. The egg trays are now
ready to be placed in the incubator automatic turners.
I can also add more spacers for the smaller eggs. (Photo 4). If you have extra space left over you can
also use the extra pieces of the square dowels as extra spacers so the eggs remain in place and
don't move around.
goose, muscovy and call duck eggs on their sides and there is a way that I have found to space them
more efficiently and conserve a little more space in Sportsman incubators. First I cut square wooden
dowels the length of the incubator tray. (Photo 1)
Next, I cover the wooden dowels with cushioned shelf paper that you can find at any hardward store.
(Photo 2) The 'paper' is non absorbant and sticky to prevent slippage of the eggs. It can also be used
to line the hatcher trays since it is non absorbant and can be cleaned and sanitized between
hatchings.
The goose eggs are placed on their side between the spacers. (Photo 3) Six African or American Buff
eggs can fit on their sides or seven China or Shetland eggs together will fit. The egg trays are now
ready to be placed in the incubator automatic turners.
I can also add more spacers for the smaller eggs. (Photo 4). If you have extra space left over you can
also use the extra pieces of the square dowels as extra spacers so the eggs remain in place and
don't move around.
| Natural Incubation by Lou Horton |
Of all of the aspects of rearing Calls, perhaps none causes as much frustration as the ability to
consistently hatch them well. Most breeders depend upon the incubator for that purpose because of
dependability; it is always ready to go to work when one needs it. Calls are not always easy to hatch
in an incubator, however, and many breeders have a hatch percentage lower (sometimes much
hatch rate. So if one cannot achieve good results with an incubator, what other alternatives are
there? The answer, of course, is to use natural incubation; the uses of setters.
The use of setters of any kind requires a degree of advanced planning not as important when an
incubator is used. Setters will begin to set when they feel that they have a suitable clutch of eggs.
That means that they must be allowed to gather eggs in their nests until the setting instinct is
triggered. Once that happens, they should be allowed to set for 48 hours minimum before Call eggs
are entrusted to them. The number of eggs given will vary depending upon the size of the bird setting
but no more should be given than she can cover completely. Not giving too many eggs is important
since the bird will rotate the eggs under her during incubation and if some stick out from under her,
each will be chilled as they are moved.
Of course, the real trick is having enough setters ready to accept eggs when hatching eggs become
available. That takes timing and experience.
Lets start with letting the Calls themselves do the hatching. While that can work well and work
consistently, there are drawbacks. First of all, not all Call females are naturally inclined to set. In my
line of White Calls, for example, the young females had a bad tendency to leave the nest after about
three weeks of incubation. Since it takes a full 27-28 days to hatch Calls, that was a problem. I did
find that the female Whites were better setters as they aged, however. Then there is the problem of
hatching numbers of ducklings to have a good number to select from. If one allows each female to
set on her own eggs, one will naturally limit the number that can be hatched by each female rather
severely. Some get around that problem by keeping a number of females solely for the purpose of
hatching eggs. Such females can be larger (allowing them to cover more eggs) and need not be of
good quality. In my experience, virtually any of the colored Calls will serve well for such purposes and
birds in the 2-5 yr. age ranges are probably best. Some breeders have excellent success with the
use of Mallards, Wood Ducks, and Mandarins as setters of Call eggs. The management of cavity
nesters such as Mandarins and Woodies is somewhat different than that for the others, and is best
left to practitioners such as Charlie Hodum to describe.
If one uses duck setters, they will require some care and management every day. They must be
supplied with clean, secluded nests that are protected from predators and away from all of the
activity of the main flock. A separate house and pen is best. There should be at least one nest for
each female while they are building their clutches of eggs. Once the females have begun to set, all
extra nests should be removed so that the females do not return to an empty nest instead of her
own. The birds should be sprayed for lice and mites before they begin to set. Each female should
get off of the nest for exercise, food, and bathing at least once a day. Some will do so automatically
and some will need to be taken off. Bathing water is important, not only to provide a way to minimize
re-infestation by mites and lice, but to provide the moisture that they duck will need to keep too much
moisture from leaving the egg during the incubation period.
It is recommended that careful records be kept about hatch dates that that the eggs be removed as
they start to pip to finish in an incubator used as a hatcher. One can let the female finish the hatching
process but there are two disadvantages to doing so. First, early hatching ducklings may leave the
nest and be chilled, stepped on, etc. Second, a female allowed to complete the hatching process
might well lose interest in setting anymore. I recommend raising ducklings in brooders in any case,
since I think there tends to be fewer losses.
Another alternative in natural incubation is the method practiced successfully by master Call breeder
Graham Oakford for years. Graham kept a flock of medium sized mixed breed chicken hens to use in
hatching his Calls. That the method works cannot be disputed. Oakford hatched 200-300 ducklings
every year for many years using his method. One must be warned, however, that the use of chickens
as hatchers presents it’s own set of problems and close daily supervision is necessary. The primary
problems involved control of mites and lice and in maintaining the proper rate of dehydration in the
eggs. Both are more difficult when one uses chickens to set duck eggs.
Hopefully this article has presented all of the major pros and cons of natural incubation of Call eggs.
Any variation of the systems described can work if one is willing to put in the time and effort to make
them work.
consistently hatch them well. Most breeders depend upon the incubator for that purpose because of
dependability; it is always ready to go to work when one needs it. Calls are not always easy to hatch
in an incubator, however, and many breeders have a hatch percentage lower (sometimes much
hatch rate. So if one cannot achieve good results with an incubator, what other alternatives are
there? The answer, of course, is to use natural incubation; the uses of setters.
The use of setters of any kind requires a degree of advanced planning not as important when an
incubator is used. Setters will begin to set when they feel that they have a suitable clutch of eggs.
That means that they must be allowed to gather eggs in their nests until the setting instinct is
triggered. Once that happens, they should be allowed to set for 48 hours minimum before Call eggs
are entrusted to them. The number of eggs given will vary depending upon the size of the bird setting
but no more should be given than she can cover completely. Not giving too many eggs is important
since the bird will rotate the eggs under her during incubation and if some stick out from under her,
each will be chilled as they are moved.
Of course, the real trick is having enough setters ready to accept eggs when hatching eggs become
available. That takes timing and experience.
Lets start with letting the Calls themselves do the hatching. While that can work well and work
consistently, there are drawbacks. First of all, not all Call females are naturally inclined to set. In my
line of White Calls, for example, the young females had a bad tendency to leave the nest after about
three weeks of incubation. Since it takes a full 27-28 days to hatch Calls, that was a problem. I did
find that the female Whites were better setters as they aged, however. Then there is the problem of
hatching numbers of ducklings to have a good number to select from. If one allows each female to
set on her own eggs, one will naturally limit the number that can be hatched by each female rather
severely. Some get around that problem by keeping a number of females solely for the purpose of
hatching eggs. Such females can be larger (allowing them to cover more eggs) and need not be of
good quality. In my experience, virtually any of the colored Calls will serve well for such purposes and
birds in the 2-5 yr. age ranges are probably best. Some breeders have excellent success with the
use of Mallards, Wood Ducks, and Mandarins as setters of Call eggs. The management of cavity
nesters such as Mandarins and Woodies is somewhat different than that for the others, and is best
left to practitioners such as Charlie Hodum to describe.
If one uses duck setters, they will require some care and management every day. They must be
supplied with clean, secluded nests that are protected from predators and away from all of the
activity of the main flock. A separate house and pen is best. There should be at least one nest for
each female while they are building their clutches of eggs. Once the females have begun to set, all
extra nests should be removed so that the females do not return to an empty nest instead of her
own. The birds should be sprayed for lice and mites before they begin to set. Each female should
get off of the nest for exercise, food, and bathing at least once a day. Some will do so automatically
and some will need to be taken off. Bathing water is important, not only to provide a way to minimize
re-infestation by mites and lice, but to provide the moisture that they duck will need to keep too much
moisture from leaving the egg during the incubation period.
It is recommended that careful records be kept about hatch dates that that the eggs be removed as
they start to pip to finish in an incubator used as a hatcher. One can let the female finish the hatching
process but there are two disadvantages to doing so. First, early hatching ducklings may leave the
nest and be chilled, stepped on, etc. Second, a female allowed to complete the hatching process
might well lose interest in setting anymore. I recommend raising ducklings in brooders in any case,
since I think there tends to be fewer losses.
Another alternative in natural incubation is the method practiced successfully by master Call breeder
Graham Oakford for years. Graham kept a flock of medium sized mixed breed chicken hens to use in
hatching his Calls. That the method works cannot be disputed. Oakford hatched 200-300 ducklings
every year for many years using his method. One must be warned, however, that the use of chickens
as hatchers presents it’s own set of problems and close daily supervision is necessary. The primary
problems involved control of mites and lice and in maintaining the proper rate of dehydration in the
eggs. Both are more difficult when one uses chickens to set duck eggs.
Hopefully this article has presented all of the major pros and cons of natural incubation of Call eggs.
Any variation of the systems described can work if one is willing to put in the time and effort to make
them work.
| Building an Extreme Call by David Touchette |
years ago.” I have raised Calls since I was ten and have shown them since 1976. All along I have
had in my mind a picture of a duck which would be the best Call duck.
Now that there are so many quality Calls I think some people are forgetting what the model Call
duck should really look like. What qualities are very important to possess? I wish to discuss some
qualities I feel are lacking in some quality champion Call ducks. During this discussion I will be
speaking of all varieties but mostly have whites and grays in mind since they are the closest and
most developed.
Many ducks are very level and have a great anvil shape to them. The breast comes down deep and
swings up to the tail as desired. But a lot of ducks do not have the really extreme width. Looking
down from the top, the body should be really short and WIDE. The width especially is lacking many
times. We see too many petite dainty birds but a Call duck should be built with more of a bull in
mind. Sometimes these traits build a little bigger bird but you’ll have birds with great condition,
strong legs, vigor and stamina. Many dainty narrow birds are too fragile even if they have good
condition.
Some Calls are up on their legs meaning their legs are long. Bodies do not go way down near their
feet. The body still has to swing up behind the feet, but I feel the deeper the better. That is why many
people load up their show cages with a lot of shaving.
One quality that I know people will agree on is the head. I have really concentrated a lot on this
through the years to date. Looking straight on as the duck looks at you, the head should be wide,
wide, wide. Not only the cheeks but the top of the head, the forehead and between the eyes for the
tennis ball look. Too many Calls are very narrow here. Looking at the side view of the head, the
distance between the beginning of the bill to the back of the head should be very SHORT. There are
many Calls with a very high rise off the beak but the back of the head is long. It’s round but too long.
Too many people view this as a big head but the eye is not centered in the middle as it should.
Many Calls do have huge round eyes which is great but make sure there is no red fleshy areas in
the front corner. The whole big round area should be the eye, especially in whites.
No neck is what you should try to achieve because then you will have really short necked birds.
Check out your birds when they get excited. That is a good way to look for short necks. I really haven’t
had a problem with long necks because the wide bodied, big headed birds seem to have short
necks.
Lastly, one very important quality is the shortness and width of the Call ducks’ beak. Too many Calls
have short but thin beaks. Whites especially need the extreme width to the beak. Think of being
wider than longer and you will achieve the width. One way to breed width into your Calls is to
outcross some of your birds to wide beak Calls. If the bills are longer but they have great width, you
will get some wide short beaked Calls.
I’ve included a picture of a pair of my greys. This picture was taken in a heavy downpour but you can
see these qualities still show through. Good examples of whites are on my website. http://angelfire.
com/mb/bantampond.
Lastly, your Call ducks have to be from strains that posses some of these qualities. You could
outcross some of these ducks into what you are working with.
had in my mind a picture of a duck which would be the best Call duck.
Now that there are so many quality Calls I think some people are forgetting what the model Call
duck should really look like. What qualities are very important to possess? I wish to discuss some
qualities I feel are lacking in some quality champion Call ducks. During this discussion I will be
speaking of all varieties but mostly have whites and grays in mind since they are the closest and
most developed.
Many ducks are very level and have a great anvil shape to them. The breast comes down deep and
swings up to the tail as desired. But a lot of ducks do not have the really extreme width. Looking
down from the top, the body should be really short and WIDE. The width especially is lacking many
times. We see too many petite dainty birds but a Call duck should be built with more of a bull in
mind. Sometimes these traits build a little bigger bird but you’ll have birds with great condition,
strong legs, vigor and stamina. Many dainty narrow birds are too fragile even if they have good
condition.
Some Calls are up on their legs meaning their legs are long. Bodies do not go way down near their
feet. The body still has to swing up behind the feet, but I feel the deeper the better. That is why many
people load up their show cages with a lot of shaving.
One quality that I know people will agree on is the head. I have really concentrated a lot on this
through the years to date. Looking straight on as the duck looks at you, the head should be wide,
wide, wide. Not only the cheeks but the top of the head, the forehead and between the eyes for the
tennis ball look. Too many Calls are very narrow here. Looking at the side view of the head, the
distance between the beginning of the bill to the back of the head should be very SHORT. There are
many Calls with a very high rise off the beak but the back of the head is long. It’s round but too long.
Too many people view this as a big head but the eye is not centered in the middle as it should.
Many Calls do have huge round eyes which is great but make sure there is no red fleshy areas in
the front corner. The whole big round area should be the eye, especially in whites.
No neck is what you should try to achieve because then you will have really short necked birds.
Check out your birds when they get excited. That is a good way to look for short necks. I really haven’t
had a problem with long necks because the wide bodied, big headed birds seem to have short
necks.
Lastly, one very important quality is the shortness and width of the Call ducks’ beak. Too many Calls
have short but thin beaks. Whites especially need the extreme width to the beak. Think of being
wider than longer and you will achieve the width. One way to breed width into your Calls is to
outcross some of your birds to wide beak Calls. If the bills are longer but they have great width, you
will get some wide short beaked Calls.
I’ve included a picture of a pair of my greys. This picture was taken in a heavy downpour but you can
see these qualities still show through. Good examples of whites are on my website. http://angelfire.
com/mb/bantampond.
Lastly, your Call ducks have to be from strains that posses some of these qualities. You could
outcross some of these ducks into what you are working with.